Bryce Canyon and Zion National Park: October 13th - October 16th, 2016

The drive into Utah from Horseshoe Bend was once again quite a scenic and an interesting one. First we drove across another little dam and passed the Grand Staircase National Park. Then we crossed into the very scenic and almost movie set like little town of Springdale. It was so picturesque, like something out of an old Western. From there it was not too much further to where we needed to turn off to Zion.

The road leading to Zion National Park was also quite pretty and as had been everywhere out this way, the road was well signed to watch for deer. Only this time, you didn’t have to wonder if there were actually any deer around as everywhere you looked, there was a deer on the side of the road. As the sun began to set, more and more deer kept popping up.

Entranced and wary of the deer, we then missed our turn off to Zion Ponderosa Ranch. Once again getting lost led us to another cool animal sighting. A ranch full of bison! Unfortunately they were a little far away to photograph, so we got back to our turn off and headed for the ranch.

Well, we thought there were a lot of deer on the previous road. HA! That was nothing compared to this road. Along the road were mostly fields of long grass, ranches and accommodation. Naturally, the long grass attracted the deer. Hundreds of deer. It was quite an incredible and daunting sight. While we couldn’t help but enjoy the fields full of deer, we also kept wondering when one was going to leap out in front of the car. Thankfully though, we made it to Zion Ponderosa Ranch, just as the sun had set.

After checking in, we were then sent on our way to our accommodation. Zion Ponderosa is a huge place, with cabins, R.V sites, hotel style accommodation, camp sites, and our accommodation. An old school wagon. It was literally a wild west wagon, decked out with a double and two single beds and although it had no electricity, it was a super cool place to be spending a few nights.

The first morning at the ranch we decided to make the 90minute drive to Bryce Canyon. On the way there we stopped off at a Red Canyon National Park, where we climbed a steep little hill made entirely of fire red rocks. It was beautiful and a nice little warm up for what was to come in Bryce Canyon.

After the scenic drive into Bryce, we eventually made it to our first stop. Sunrise view point. Originally we were just going to stop here and look at the breathtaking views. So we walked over to Sunset Point to check it out and decided that while we were there, we may as well walk the Queens Garden trail.

It was spectacular, with crazy rock formations in many shades of reds, orange and white which were caused by the different chemicals in the sandstone rocks. It was also known as The Queens Garden as one of the formations looked like the Queen sitting on her throne overlooking her gigantic garden.

From Queens Garden, we decided to keep on going and ended up walking the Navajo loop. The views and crazy formations continued. We also got to walk through a bit of a pine forest, which allowed us to see a beautiful bluebird and see the canyon from a different perspective.

The Queen on her throne is the spire on the left

The last little part of the hike was indeed the most strenuous. It was a zigzag up the side of the canyon. It also had a really cool rock formation along the way, known as Thor’s Hammer. Clearly, a few people were not prepared for the exertion that the trek provided, as there were many stopped, huffing and puffing. However, we eventually made it to the top and once more the views from up high took our breath away.

Once we had finished the 5.2km hike, we decided we wouldn’t have time to do the intended 7km hike we had planned on and make it back to Ponderosa before the deer came out to ‘play’. So instead we drove around to a couple more of the viewpoints.

These included Rainbow point (the highest point at 9115ft), Ponderosa and Bryce viewpoints. All of which provided a slightly different perspective, a hell of a lot of wind and spectacular views. On our way out of the national park we again spotted a few deer as we eventually made it back to the ranch for the evening.

Once again as we had done the previous evening, we made our way to the restaurant at the ranch. Just as the night before, we had a half hour wait for a table. However, it was worth the wait. The food was pretty delicious at Ponderosa and after a full day of hiking and exploring, the large meals were certainly appreciated!

Thor's Hammer

Waking early the next morning, we filled up at the free buffet breakfast and made our way into Zion National Park. It was only about 15 minutes to the entrance from where we were staying and when we arrived, it appeared like it may not be too busy. Well, were we wrong.

As we drove into the park, soaking in some of the most incredible views yet, we suddenly noticed how many cars were parked along the edges. Then we arrived at a checkpoint where cars and R.Vs took turns of crossing through a tunnel bridge. We must have waited twenty or so minutes before we got through. Then on the other side, we again could not believe the views we were seeing, likewise, we could not believe the line of cars zigzagging down into the national park.

Continuing on through the park, each and every carpark was taken. So we kept on going and before we realised, we were out the other side of the National Park! We eventually found a paid parking spot and got ourselves in line for the shuttle back into the park. We realised it was probably going to be the last nice weekend before the cold weather hit, so every man, woman and child had decided to visit the park. So not only did it cost us an extra $20 US for parking, on top of our park entry fee, but we had now lost about 2.5 hours, making it 11:30am before we even got to Angels Landing starting point.

The peak we are about to climb

Putting the park and ride saga aside, we prepared ourselves for what is known as one of the most treacherous hikes in the USA. We had learned, not too long before starting, that 6 people had died doing this exact hike since 2006. So we were a little nervous, but totally excited to get going.

With the adrenaline coursing through us, we began the small but steep 4.35km accent. The first section although windy and relatively steep, was pretty tame. The views, however, were already breathtaking. So after hiking for only about an hour, we had reached the first stopping point. A point high enough, that some spectacular views of the hills and valleys around us could be seen. It was also the point where people had to decide to proceed to the summit, or turn back. Just by looking ahead, it was clear not too many people chickened out and turned back. The trail was packed and there was only one way up and one way down, so it was pretty chaotic!

Half way up

After a little rest and catching of our breath, we started on the next leg of the hike. Like I said before, 6 people had died doing this trek and it wasn’t until we started the climb that we could see why. There was one link chain to hold on to and on either side of the maybe metre wide trail, was a thousand foot drop. Not for the faint hearted, or those scared of heights.

There were also many moments where you had to pause to let the people coming the opposite direction pass. Often there was scarcely enough space for one to hold on, let alone two. Unfortunately there were also many impatient people trying to overtake the slower ones. It was frustrating to say the least.

For the most part though, it was exceptionally beautiful and fun and sure enough, after about a 45 minute climb/scramble/battle, we had reached the very top. So had a million other people. The views though, oh the views. They were just incredible and so worth the hike.

Once we had eaten our lunch and appreciated the views, it was time for the descent. Again it took us about 45 minutes just to climb down to the first rest point, due to the sheer volume of people. Then from that point on it took us only about another 30 minutes to get back to the trailhead. It was a quick descent due to the steepness and it was just easier to run down most of the way.

When we got back to the shuttle stop, we were naturally exhausted. However, the sense of satisfaction and achievement outweighed the pain. As did the memories we will forever have of the climb and the views.

Not too long after, the shuttle bus arrived and we made our way back to the visitor information centre. Here we got a coffee and worked out our plan for the next day. To do The Narrows or to not do The Narrows.

After another hearty meal and an early night, we arose again quite early and made our way back to Zion National Park for round two. After much deliberation, we had decided to forgo The Narrows as it was quite simply the wrong time of year and way too cold! So after making our way once again though the park and to the other side, where we found some free parking, we hopped aboard the shuttle at the Visitor Information Centre and made our way back into the park. This time we made our way to The Hidden Canyon trailhead.

This hike was again a little tricky in places, requiring hikers to once again walk a narrow cliff edge, while holding onto a link chain. However, it was beautiful. It lead us to a couple of viewpoints which overlooked, as the name would suggest, a hidden canyon. Where rescue workers were honing their repelling and rescue skills.

As this hike was only a 3.9km round trip, we decided to forge on up the other side of the track and do the beginnings of the East Rim trail, which leads to Observation Point. We probably hiked about the first 2km of the 12.9km trail, to a beautiful panoramic point which provided sweeping views of Zion and back over to Angels Landing. Along the way, we ran into people who had almost completed the 12.9km hike and they raved about the views. Sadly though, we did not have time and we were very sore and tired from the day before. So after some time just sitting and enjoying the views, we made our way back to the shuttle stop.

The trail up to the hidden canyon

When we arrived back at the visitor centre, we decided this time to head to the pub for a celebratory beer and some well earned chicken wings. Not only were both thoroughly enjoyable, but there were also still views of the surrounding mountains to enjoy. So enjoy we did!

For our last night at Zion Ponderosa Ranch, we had a few beers, enjoyed another hearty meal and crawled oh so thankfully into our wagon for a solid nights sleep. We absolutely loved our time at Bryce and Zion (despite the crowds) and the next morning we were on our way back to Las Vegas.

Holly.

Mesa Verde and Horseshoe Bend: October 12th - October 13th, 2016.

The drive across from Utah to Colorado was notable for the fact that we started seeing real signs of the leaves on the trees changing to the vibrant autumn colours. Most of the area was covered by various farms and there were multiple signs warning that this was a 'Deer migration route,’ though like much of the trip the roads were safely deer free.

We arrived in to the town of Cortez in the mid-afternoon, a smallish establishment nestled at the base of the Colorado Plateau, a rocky and mountainous region. It was these mountains that were the major reason for our visit, or more specifically the ancient Puebloan people's abandoned cliff dwellings. We checked in to our accommodation (a nice cheap Travelodge) and headed out in town for dinner. There was quite a strong Latino influence in Cortez and we chose one of the many Mexican restaurants along the Main Street - delicious!

Early the next morning we drove the 17km up to the visitors centre for the mountainous Mesa Verde National Park. Sadly due to the shift in seasons there were no longer any guided tours to the famous cliff place so instead we booked an afternoon tour to the 'Balcony House.’ We were quite lucky to be able to secure that tour as the balcony lodge tour season finishes on the 15th of October. So we had made it by 3 days!

     

We drove back down to Cortez to take care of a few travelling chores (laundry, etc) and then ventured in to the park itself in the early afternoon. The drive in to the park was quite long and wound itself up and down several peaks. The autumn colours really added to the beautiful forest scenery that covered the nearby hills.
There were a few lookout points along the way that gave some excellent views out over the plains below, including over Cortez itself. A few more kilometres along the road and we reached the highest point of the national park, Park Point at 2,613 metres above sea level. This point gave another great viewpoint over the surrounding area, a fact that is utilised by the local rangers who utilise the vantage point to monitor the park for wildfire.

The park has had several serious fire incidents in the past. The most recent in 2003, set off by lightning strike. Also admiring the view, was a family of local grouse, who had created a home under a picnic table.

Our pre-booked tour time was quickly approaching. So we followed the rim of the valley to the balcony house carpark. Here we joined up with the rest of our group and met our ranger who would be taking is down to the ancient dwelling.

Before setting off we were given the history of the civilisation whose former residences we would be visiting. The Puebloan people inhabited the lowlands of what is now Colorado in the approximate timeframe of 600 AD. During this time the population grew, a devastating drought set in and as a result, lands were over farmed, lakes were overfished and animals were over hunted, equalling widespread food and water shortages. These shortages led to increased tensions and finally warfare and bloodshed.

As a result, around the year 1200 AD, a small section of Puebloans left their traditional homelands on the flats and moved up into the surrounding mountains. Afraid of the violence and war, these people did not elect to build traditional villages on the peaks of the mountains, but instead, carved out whole cities right in the faces of the cliffs.

    

The dwelling that we were visiting were relatively small compared to the average and would have been a home to around 45 people. When inhabited the only way in and out was to scale over the valley rim and down the sheer cliff using small foot and handholds. Luckily for us a new set of stairs has been installed a couple of hundred metres south from the dwelling which led to a rocky outcrop and a short trail. Along the way the ranger continued to speak about the harsh conditions that these people faced while living here. For example the only source of water was the seepage through a small section of limestone near the cave!

This trail took us directly below the dwelling to a 10 metre ladder which we used to climb in to the balcony house itself. The cliff dwelling was something vey amazing and unique and built well enough to only require minimal restoration work to this day. It was like a tiny village or large house (though 45 people squeezed in would have been a very tight fit!) with rooms, storage vats and religious nooks all in place. Each room was surrounded by sturdy wall with accompanying windows, all jammed in to a space carved in to the cliff measuring around 6 metres at its widest and overlooking a 120 metre drop.

We passed from room to room marvelling at the conditions and workmanship that had gone in to creating this residence. It was very obvious that for people to go out of their way to create a living space like this, conditions down on the war-torn plains must have been truly terrible. Reinforcing this was the tiny crawl space that acted as a front door to the dwelling. Each of us had to get down on our hands and knees and crawl through in single file in order to exit. This would have been a great defence mechanism to aid in fighting off any hostiles attempting to access the housing.
As we crawled out of the entrance and climbed another ladder back to the cliff top, we asked the question, ‘What actually happened to the people that lived here?’ According to our guide, these cliffs were inhabited for around 80 years (3 generations in those days)  and were finally abandoned around the year 1300 AD when conditions simply got too tough and a fresh start was sought out elsewhere.

We jumped back in to the car and completed the scenic loop drive of the surrounding cliffs. We got some great views across to several other cliff Dwellings including the largest, known as the 'cliff palace'. The palace was built to accommodate over 100 people, but again was suddenly abandoned at the same time as all the rest when conditions became too tough.

Along the way we were also lucky enough to spot some of the local wildlife including a couple of timid mule deer and a grazing solitary elk buck. Interestingly we had learned that the elk had been reintroduced to the area and we're now flourishing after previously haven been hunted to extinction. We made the long looping drive back to Cortez where we mixed it up by trying an Indian meal at a nearby restaurant, not bad!

The next morning we set out on a long journey that would take us all the way from Colorado, through northern Arizona and into the outskirts of Zion National Park, Utah. After roughly an hour we stopped at it first point of interest, the Four Corners Monument. This point marked the exact meeting point where the corners of four states, Colorado, Utah, Arizona and New Mexico, all meet nicely at one point. The site was located on another Indian reserve and so it required an entry fee to be paid, but it was worth it to have the opportunity to stand in four states at once!

We jumped back in the car and continued through the dry mountainous desert of Northern Arizona. We passed back along through past Antelope Canyon, which we had visited a few days before and just before entering the town of Page, we stopped at our next viewpoint, Horseshoe Bend. The carpark for Horseshoe Bend was located just off the main highway and after a kilometre long hike we reached the bend itself.

Horseshoe bend is a small section of the Colorado River (the same river that both flows through the Grand Canyon and powers the Hoover Dam) that makes a photogenic curve through the dry, red-rocked terrain of Arizona. Over millions of years the force of the water has eroded the rock, creating a magnificent and gigantic canyon that overlooks the river far below. Pleasingly from a aesthetic point of view there have been no guardrails or anything erected along the rim so the views are unspoiled. This means that tourists are free to get as close to the 300 metre drops as they wish. Some were well and truly on the precipice!

We spent a good amount of time here admiring the canyon from several different viewpoints. The weather was beautiful and the scenery was truly amazing. A few small boats wound their way along the river far below and I could only imagine the great view they would have had looking up at the canyon walls.

Once we were finished admiring the view, it was time to head back to the car and continue North, past Page, and in to Utah.

Adrian.