Newfounland Part 1 - Gros Morne National Park - July 2016

Thursday 21st July, we departed Hawaii at 10:30pm and travelled over 8911km in 3 separate flights. Honolulu to Vancouver, Vancouver to Toronto, and finally Toronto to Deer Lake, Newfoundland. Frustratingly the last leg was delayed due to engine trouble which pushed back our already late arrival time to 1:45am.

Despite this, our first impressions of Newfoundland (pronounced as Noo-fin-Lund) were hugely positive. We could smell the pine needles as we waited outside the airport and the people were amazingly friendly - our taxi driver and the lady at the Driftwood Inn (who stayed up until 3am to cheerfully check us in). The locals all speak in a accent that resembles an Irish/American hybrid and as we found out later, this makes a lot of sense, as 2/3 of Newfoundlanders come from Irish descent.  We quickly found that our first impression of the locals was spot on - every Newfoundlander (or 'Newfi') that we came across was friendly, eager to help and interested in our travel stories - it felt like we were passing through a small friendly country town.

We finally got to bed at 4am local time and got a few hours sleep before rising in the morning to collect our hire car and start the journey to Gros Morne National Park, an hours drive north of Deer Lake. As, we drove North the weather worsened with fog and constant light rain. We looped past our final destination to a town called Parsons Pond in the hopes of seeing a caribou herd we had been told were in the area, but sadly we quickly called off the search as visibility and weather continued to deteriorate.

                     

                          Lobster Cove Lighthouse

Looking out over Rocky Harbour

We finally arrived at our destination, the small 600 person town of Norris Point, where we were greeted by our host Terry of Terry's B+B. Terry continued the trend of friendly locals and did everything he could to ensure we had a great stay for the next 4 nights. We took an early night to prepare ourselves for the first of 3 planned busy days around GMNP.

                

               Trout River Lookout

The Tablelands trek

The next morning we woke up to continued heavy fog, but decided to proceed with our hiking plans for the day. We first drove south west through Woody Point to walk the 4km Tablelands trek. This trek was over a barren rocky terrain that closely resembled what you imagine the lunar surface to be. As we completed this hike, the fog started to burn away as blue sky and the sun fought through the clouds. We had originally intended to turn back North, but instead found ourselves heading further west towards the ocean and the clear blue sky we could see in the distance.
We arrived at the seaside town of Trout River just after midday. By this time the clouds and fog had completely disappeared and we were now experiencing a perfect summers day. For the first time we were able to fully experience and appreciate the bright blues of the ponds and ocean and the lush greens of the seemingly never ending pine forests of the area.

                     

                          Blue whale vertebrae

Northern headland trail

Old man seastone

At Trout River where we completed 2 shortish hikes. One to the Northern Headland and the other to the Southern headland around the bay. Each walk was beautiful - the former gave magnificent views up and down the shoreline, as well as an amazing panorama across the town. The southern hike took us past the huge sea stone called the 'old man' (to me it resembled a dwarf from the lord of the rings movies) that overlooks the bay and on to a small lighthouse station that again provided excellent views. We also observed a number of whale bones - several vertebrae and a huge rib bone that were on display along the beach Boardwalk. The bones were huge and we found out the next day that in 2014 an 80 foot (24m) dead blue whale had washed ashore on this tiny beach.

We headed back to Norris Point and again that night experienced the friendliness and generous nature of the Newfi's. We were invited to a small bonfire on the beach. As we shared beers with new friends, we watched the sunset and were taught about the stars and constellations of the Northern Hemisphere.
The next morning we woke ready to tackle the primary reason for our visit, Gros Morne Mountain. A 16km loop track over an 806m peak - the highest in the park. Luckily we were blessed with another beautiful day and set out on out hike at 9:30am.

                               

                                      Ready to tackle the mountain

Yes - that is the trail up!

The first 4km of the track took us to the base of the mountain and was fairly  easy to navigate, a slight uphill that wound through the forest between several ponds and marshes. All the while we were looking for the path that would take us up the mountain, but we couldn't work out how we would make it up what seemed nothing but sheer rock cliffs.  However, we soon arrived at the base (past a sign that warned about the ascent to come) and saw that the path up was up a steep valley, covered with loose rocks of various sizes.

We scrambled up the valley and took several pauses to catch our breath. During one of these breaks we heard a lady comment 'this isn't hiking - it's rock climbing!' It was hard to argue with her!

We eventually made it to the top of the valley. From there we completed a short walk over a gentle incline to the summit, taking in the view over the surrounding glacier carved mountains and many small lakes. We stopped here for lunch as we admired the view.

As we ate lunch we watched 2 small pigeon type birds peck around the rocks. We later found out these birds were called rock ptarmigans and are very rare, only found on the top of Rocky Mountains. We found this out from an older couple who completed the hike the same day as us in 11.5 hours, JUST to see these birds!
After lunch the path took us over to the western side of the summit. It was here that we experienced the best view of the trip to date. A bright blue lake flanked by huge cliffs with the green forests and distant ocean as a beautiful backdrop.

After some pictures and a rest we started the descent, rough and uneven, and hard on the knees and feet. All the while we kept an eye out for moose (the park is claimed to have 1 moose per square km), but sadly didn't see anything. We made it back to the car at 3:20 pm, bringing our time to a very respectable 6 hours. Both of us agreed that this had been the highlight of the trip so far.

The next day the weather had again started to turn, with rains forecast in the afternoon and evening. With a few aches and pains hanging around from the Gros Morne trail we took it a bit easier and only tackled 1 medium hike for the day - the Western Brook Pond. This was a relatively flat easy trail that takes you to another scenic viewpoint of more cliffs around another huge body of water, in this case a fully landlocked glacier lake. Sadly the clouds had started to roll in at this point which took away from some of the beauty and we were also unable to catch the boat out on to the lake as all berths were taken.

That evening we went to the neighbouring town of Rocky Harbour for dinner. We were keen for a change of menu from the simple fried foods on offer at Norris Point. We chose a fancy seafood restaurant and had some delicious local seafood including mussels, prawns and halibut. This was our final evening in GMNP and was certainly a fitting way to end our time there.

The atmosphere was a world away from the crowded tourist packed beaches and streets of Hawaii and it was a lovely change. It was very surprising how few foreign tourists we encountered along the way. We got the impression that Newfoundland is an area of Canada overlooked and overshadowed by the appeal of the west coast and Rocky Mountains of BC and Alberta.

On Wednesday morning we got up early, bid farewell to Terry and started on our way to our next destination, the capital of Newfoundland, St Johns.

Adrian.

Pearl Harbor - July 20

On our last full day in Hawaii we made our way to the iconic body of water known as Pearl Harbor. This was a trip that we had booked well in advance and was very costly as compared to our budgets. We had gone back and forth over what level of tour to choose, but ended up going with an all inclusive tour that incorporated travel as well as admission to the USS Bowfin submarine, the USS Arizona memorial, the USS Missouri (Iowa Class Battleship) and the aviation museum (as well as the various museums and monuments along the shoreline). This turned out to be an excellent choice as all up this was my personal favourite day of our time on Oahu. We went with the 'Discover Hawaii' tour group and were led by a Polynesian tour guide (complete with map of Oahu tattooed on his palm) who was absolutely fantastic.

I warn that I am going to state a lot of detailed history in this post - I admit that my knowledge before our visit was not great and I found the day fascinating!
After a short drive across from Waikiki (backstory laid down by our guide), we arrived at Pearl Harbor, survived the queue, (at 6:50am!) and were ready to commence our day.

                       

                            The USS Bowfin

At the helm of the Bowfin

The USS Bowfin was up first and I have to say that I was surprised at both how large the vessel actually was while simultaneously marvelling at the confined space that a crew of 14 would share for their long missions at sea. This submarine also came with a fair slice of history. It is nicknamed the 'Avenger' due to the key role it played at the battle of Midway in 1942 where 3 of the Japanese aircraft carriers responsible for the attack on Pearl Harbor were sunk.

              

                 Oil spilling from the wreck of the Arizona 

Remains of the Arizona

Next was the USS Arizona memorial which was preceded by the presentation of a short film detailing the history behind the attack. The memorial was a white building strategically built as to straddle the sunken remains of the Arizona which was so badly damaged as to never have been able to recovered. We were to learn that a Japanese bomber scored a hit from 10,000 feet that penetrated 5 decks before exploding in the ammunition chamber.

             

          The location the Arizona during the attack

Remembering the fallen soldiers of the Arizona

                                                                          Two things stand out to me as I think about the Arizona a day later…
First of all, it amazes me to see large amounts of oil glazing the surface of the water - even after nearly 75 years have passed. Later we were to be told that the Arizona was struck with a huge amount of oil on board - experts estimate that there is still nearly 550 000 gallons still there today. Apparently there is no safe way to recover this oil and to attempt would a desecration of the resting place for over 1000 members of the U.S. Navy. The Arizona is responsible for the vast majority of US lives lost at Pearl Harbour and a huge amount are still on board - essentially buried at sea.

Also when viewing the huge plaque listing the names and tanks of all the lost soldiers, I was very interested to see names of the survivors who had since passed away (as recently as 2015), but had chosen for their final resting place to be alongside their former crew mates. This did make think about the burden these few would have carried as the few survivors of the original tragedy and the emotions they must have taken with them for the rest of their lives.

The tour group then met back on the bus (the tour guide was amusingly abused by an older lady from Arkansas who accused him of causing her to miss the Arizona memorial - she had apparently been waiting to see it for 30 years. Turns out she had seen everything like the rest of us and was of the opinion that the memory was 'bigger and better'. Oops!) and were driven through the military checkpoints to Ford Island. Along the way our guide serenaded us with a verse from a poem written by a young local Hawaiian dockhand who had observed the whole attack and survived.
Next we visited the USS Missouri - a sister ship to the sunken USS Oklahoma and serving as a monument to her. The Missouri was fascinating - a huge ship (600 feet long and 10 stories tall) which allowed access to vast majority for us tourists.  We were supplied with a special guide (who was fantastic) and given a talk about the boat before some free time to explore.

A certain highlight was standing on the 'surrender deck' - the exact location where the unconditional surrender by Japan to the US was formalised and signed by both parties in the bay of Tokyo in 1945.

Lastly we headed to the Pacific Aviation Museum - also located on Ford island. Again we were given a tour by a specialist guide (Bob - a former U.S. Airforce colonel) who was also absolutely fantastic. Bob gave us more insight into elements of the Pearl Harbour attack and the Pacific war as a whole as well as first hand stories from his own experiences as a pilot in the Vietnam war (Including crashing into a friendly helicopter and landing safely during a mission in Laos)

Damge sustained by the hanger during the 1941 attack

The Pacific Aviation Museum 

We were informed that this aviation museum had recently been listed as one of the top 10 in the US and it was easy to see why - I certainly would recommend for any potential visitors.

One thing that I picked up from the Tour was how many small moments actually made up the outcome of WWII. A particular moment that stands out is the decision of the Japanese admiral who was in charge of the fleet that attacked Pearl Harbor; deciding not to send the planned 3rd wave of bombers. He made this decision based on trying to conserve equipment and personnel losses due to the US forces now being more prepared to defend.

It turns out that had this third wave of fighters been launched successfully and had destroyed their planned targets (infrastructure and warehouses at the harbour), then it realistically would have put the US forces 2 years behind where they stood and theoretically added at least 2 years to the Pacific War. A real case of what if!

Overall I was very impressed with the entire presentation - there was no bitterness towards the Japanese, nor was there any glossing over some of the actions  taken towards the American-Japanese population on Hawaii by the US government. Also, even though I did see the fierce pride and patriotism of the American citizens throughout the day, but to me it was all displayed and appreciated in the right manner with good intent.

One thing I certainly appreciated about the day was that there was a marked decline in tourists (maybe only because the swarms of Asian tourists seen everywhere else on the island were not apparent here).
We all thoroughly enjoyed the day and I would have to say for anyone considering visiting Hawaii then skip a day at the beach and make sure pearl harbour is on your to do list!

Adrian.

Hawaii - July 2016

So, our first week of travelling has come and gone already. The first stop on our trip has been Hawaii. More specifically Oahu.

Both myself and Adrian never really considered coming to Hawaii until almost last minute. It was just not a place that really stood out to either of us. Then we figured we might like a relax for a week before the real madness of travelling the globe kicked in. Hawaii felt like a good option.

We said goodbye to our families last Thursday evening Australian time, we boarded a plane and arrived in Oahu early Thursday morning. Initial impressions were that it was hot, pretty, but very touristy. Both of us were not sure what the coming week would be like.  



After checking in to the Polynesian Beach hostel, which by the way is was clean, comfortable and by US standards, relatively inexpensive, we took a swim in the ever clear and warm aqua water. It was glorious after a long flight and the humidity we were experiencing. Joining us later that afternoon, was Adrian’s sister Alison and her partner Suzanne. After catching up at Hard Rock Café (the girls favorite restaurant), we had a rough plan for the week.


The list of activities went like this. Adrian, Alison and Suzanne checked out Honolulu Zoo. We went to a Luau, hired a car and went to Manoa Falls, Kualoa Ranch, and Haunama Bay, hiked to the top of Diamond Head Crater, and drove completely around the island checking out the amazing sights and beaches, like Pipeline. Also, a trip to Oahu would not be complete without exploring Pearl Harbor and taking a dip in the aqua blue beach everyday.

                  

Waikiki                          

Haunama Bay

              

                Kualoa Ranch

Each experience and sight had their own charm, however, some were a little more enjoyable than others. We soon learnt very quickly that the Luau we went on at Paradise Beach, was very cheesy and geared toward families with children. The whole experience felt like a scene out of Dirty Dancing. You know the one where Baby and her family are doing all the activities at Kellerman’s resort they’re staying at. The good things about it though, were our guide, the delicious food and the Polynesian dancing and fire show.
 

           

     Kualoa Ranch

The bunker at Kualoa Ranch

We did find though that once you got away from Waikiki and hoards of tourists (although keep in mind, tourists are quite thick everywhere on this small island), Oahu had some gorgeous sights. Manoa Falls was gorgeous, as was the hike to get to them. You kind of felt like you were in the Amazon as it was so dense and green.

From Manoa, we went and did the Kualoa Ranch tour. Future travelers be warned! Book well in advance for this tour as it sells out exceptionally quick. We originally wanted to do the quad bike version of the tour,  but it was sold out. Although expensive, more expensive than we would have liked, it was totally worth it. Not only did we get to see amazing mountains and coast line, we also got to see the locations of where Jurassic Park, Lost and many more films were shot. A fun and unbelievably beautiful place to visit.

                              

                                  Haunama Bay

On the way to Manoa Falls

The falls

         

     Suzanne, Alison and Adrian on
          the way to the Falls

            

               Me trekking to the falls

Haunama Bay. What we learnt here. It is a massive tourist hot spot and they like to charge you for it! Gorgeous blue water and abundance of tropical fish and coral, draw the crowds (as it did us). It was exceptionally pretty and we are definitely glad we did it. But, a tip – go there first thing. It opens at 6am and this is when you are most likely to see turtles. Also if possible, do not hire snorkel gear from there. Take it with you if possible as it is likely to be cheaper. We paid $20 US each for a snorkel, goggles and flippers. We later discovered our hostel had that for free.

We would also strongly recommend hiring a car for a couple of days. It made getting to some the afore mentioned places easier and allowed us to see coastline and beaches we wouldn’t have been able to easily see otherwise. The surf is definitely rougher and bigger on the North side of the island and the beaches are less crowded. One such beach is Banzai beach, the home of the infamous Pipeline break. Although it was very large surf and there is no way either of us would go out there, it is unfortunately not the season for the huge waves, apparently that is in winter. It was still so cool to have seen it.

The view from Daimond Head Crater

For an amazing hike, super close to the center of Waikiki, definitely check out Diamond Head Crater. As well as sighting a mongoose or three (Hawaii’s cane toad), you will see amazingly beautiful views of Waikiki and surrounds, as well as the inside of the crater. It’s only $1 US and although stairs can be tiring, it’s a great and not too challenging hike (depending on your fitness levels of course).

Lastly we ate and drank at a few places such as, Hard Rock Café and The Cheesecake Factory, however, our favorite place to eat and drink at was a place by the name of Lulu’s. Good food, good beer, reasonable prices and great service.

Overall Oahu was great. Touristy – the Gold Coast in Queensland, on steroids to be exact. But, great fun nonetheless. We would certainly consider coming back in the future, but would be more likely to visit Maui or Kauai as it feels like it would be a more authentic experience.

For information on Pearl Harbor, please check out the next blog post which is coming in the next few days.

Holly.

Adrian and I a top the Crater

The four of us after the Hike

Haunama Bay